If you don't want to use nylon ties, you can use metal clamps. The plastic zip ties zipped tight with the tensioner seems like the way to go.When the latest (3rd) edition of Manual D was in development, there was a lot of discussion about friction rates of poorly installed flex.
There are times where flex duct (or sections of it) can help to reduce costs. I also love Table A1-2 that shows how much doors need to be undercut as effective return air paths - it shows how ridiculous the concept can be.I've found that static and fan watt do not move much when putting in extra metal elbows and such to make the ducts to taut.May we please have discussion of preferred placement of in-attic furnace ducts resting upon and within the floor insulation, as presented here: Your source of knowledge about the world of building science, home energy efficiency, green jobs and more.© 2020, Energy Vanguard | 533 West Howard Avenue, Suite E, Decatur, GA 30030 The ADC standards say, "Keep bends greater than or equal to one (1) duct diameter bend radius." If it's not tight, the friction rate jumps significantly, and that means the air flow takes a hit. They also refer to standards from other organizati… Slide drive cleats through the U-channels on the short edges. It costs more use the right methods. The straps that hold up the flex duct need to be no less than 1.5" wide.The ADC standards give a lot of other details about installation, including one of the most important aspects, the connections. The ADC standards say, "Keep bends greater than or equal to one (1) duct diameter bend radius." They also refer to standards from other organizations (ACCA, ASHRAE, ASTM...) because this is an installation guide, not a complete reference work.
It's just that the homeowner usually bears those costs. A couple of years ago, I even wrote an article about whether or not The 25 page guide begins with a description of the classifications and characteristics of flex duct, then discusses how they're tested, listed, reported, and certified. The plastic zip ties zipped tight with the tensioner seems like the way to go.When the latest (3rd) edition of Manual D was in development, there was a lot of discussion about friction rates of poorly installed flex. There you have it. Connect assembled rectangular sections by inserting the plain end into the S-hooks on the long edges of the next piece. Be sure to cut all the way around the flexible ... 2. Center the tape so that approximately 4 inches will be positioned on each side of the seam. Only the Kraken himself isn't going away any time soon. I am working with 6 inch, and 7 inch sheet metal duct and vent boots as well as some flex duct. 1. A Michigan contractor lists one more use for flex duct - moving make-up air. Cut the two flexible HVAC supply lines or flex duct to the desired length with a utility knife. Peel the outer insulation jacket of each end of the flexible HVAC supply lines back 6 inches to expose the ribbed cores.Insert the end of the first flexible HVAC supply line with the insulation jacket peeled back into the left side of the 4-inch metal duct sleeve. While we prefer sheet metal, especially for trunk lines, large duct systems can be exorbitantly expensive if done in all metal.
There you have it. They also refer to standards from other organizations (ACCA, ASHRAE, ASTM...) because this is an installation guide, not a complete reference work. Wrap the seam of the ducts with metal duct tape. Image Credit: Air Diffusion Council The ADC flex duct installation standards recommend no more than 1/2" of sag per lineal foot of flex duct between supports that are no more than 4' apart. Texas A&M;, having studied this, provided data from its research for inclusion in the manual, the idea being to give designers an idea of real-world friction rates, and hopefully persuade diligent contractors to follow recommended installation practice. Yalanovsky also writes a bimonthly column that provides home improvement advice. Be sure to cut all the way around the flexible HVAC supply lines, through the outer insulation and the interior ribbed core.Put on work gloves. Quite possibly by the end of the first heating and cooling season, the duct tape will have fallen off, and you'll be back to square one. I also love Table A1-2 that shows how much doors need to be undercut as effective return air paths - it shows how ridiculous the concept can be.I've found that static and fan watt do not move much when putting in extra metal elbows and such to make the ducts to taut.May we please have discussion of preferred placement of in-attic furnace ducts resting upon and within the floor insulation, as presented here: Your source of knowledge about the world of building science, home energy efficiency, green jobs and more.© 2020, Energy Vanguard | 533 West Howard Avenue, Suite E, Decatur, GA 30030 Drive staples in at 2-inch intervals where the duct board overlaps. If you can put an equal size duct inside the turn as shown below, they say you're OK.Another biggie that I see all the time is sagging ducts. We are also in the Pacific NW and 1) most of our duct systems are in crawl spaces, not attics, and 2)our temperatures are fairly mild. Always use a metal butt joint connector if you don't follow the advice above. You can even use three sheet metal screws behind the first rib or two of the duct, as long as you use mastic under the duct at the sheet metal connection.I've been told to avoid using metal screws with flex duct because the flex can tear easily once you create a hole.
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