mine is 134a or was converted, i dont know since i didnt buy it b-new. Im not sure if you are trying to put the 94 into the 89 or the 89 into the 94. This is the Silveradosierra • Ac Switch On The Back Of Compressor of a graphic I get from the 2001 Silverado Wiring Harness Color Codes package. Some of the compressors had the switch in them and some did not. Also the main clutch plug being different will be an obstacle also. R134 was installed in S10's as early as 92, but only in a small percentage of them. Thanks for the replies. To install a switch now, you will have to evacuate the system, install the switch and than recharge it.Yea, I forgot about those types of switches in the lines.Oh, one other question. Remove the A/C high pressure switch snap ring using a pair of 90 degree angle pliers or J 5403. You can save this pic file to your personal laptop. I thought that the first one was just a fluke, like what happened to yours. Most of the time, it was just a high pressure switch, which is a closed switch unless the pressure in the system goes above a set point where it opens the circuit and causes the compressor's clutch to disengage. I think I'll try installing the compressor fom the '89 into the '94 and see if my mechanics can evacuate the system when I see them next week. As the pressure switches control the on/off function of the AC compressor, a switch failure can prevent the AC compressor from functioning at all. They are held in place by a snap ring, but when you buy a new compressor, they come with a plug installed and you have to either install the old switch, buy a new one, or leave that plug in place as the compressors had universal applications and do not always need the switch.
With out a belt on it you should be able to spin the pulley freely, since the clutch is disengaged. Then you can fill it yourself with whatever kit or cans you can buy.....Did you say it already had 134???
The most common symptom of a bad AC pressure switch are that you will notice that the AC compressor is cutting on and off rapidly when you are idling your car. you need to be carefull some of the harnesses have a diode across the plug, you need to be sure it goes in the right way. But I've found several threads like this:I have no idea what they are talking about.
One that would fit the back of the compressor and …
If you use a drop in refrigerant such as Freeze 12, you don't need to change the orifice, to compensate for the different refrigerant. just be careful and dont tear anything up.
I am going to have a look at mine today and see if it has a high pressure switch on the compressor to see if there is any consistency there (not sure if it does or not). it's intermittent, but it'll start, and chug, bad...My 91 s10 4x4 4.3 auto is not running right when u start it cold it idles high (normal) then settles down but not all the way then when it reaches operating temp it lopes and misses if u rev it by pushing gas quick it chokes then revs up if u rev slow it just misses a Lil but once it's up in...I have an 03 s10 ext cab 2wd v6. If the high and low switches are as you described...what sensor/switch is on the high pressure line just after the manifold at the compressor?First off, could someone confirm that there is indeed supposed to be a switch on the back of the AC compressor?
Anyone ever done this?If they are the same compressor you may be able to swap the switch into the older compressor but im fairly certain the older compressor doesnt have the port for it. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.I know the bigger one towards the front is power, but what is the smaller one at the back? On the older compressors, some did have a switch in the backside (sometimes 2). As far as the clutch plug being different just cut it off the old vehicle and splice it on you new one. all of the stickers on everything say 134a, so i am guessing that its all original. Check the new switch and make sure that the small O-ring is in place on the bottom of the switch. Please right click on the image and save the pic. '89 S-10 Blazer 2WD, 2" Bell tech drop spindles, 3" blocks, 16x8 wheels, 4.3 TBI auto, 2 1/2 Magna Flow exaust'94 S-10 Blazer 4X4, 3" BL, d30 SUA SAS, 32x11.50 tires, 15x8 wheels, rear lock-rite, 4.3 cpi Vortec auto, 2 1/2 Magna Flow Exaust'92 S10 P.U., d30 SOA SAS, ford 8.8 rear, 15x10 wheels, 33x13.5 swampers, 4.3, 5spd, etc.I'm trying to put the one from the '89 into the '94. If it did have a switch and you had to replace it, you would have to evacuate the system and all to put it in. sensor is on the accumulator, not my comp. I would honestly say it would be best to get the right one for it. The AC system is not cooling as it should The truck should have a switch on the back of the compressor also being a factory 134 system. It is cramped behind the steering shaft. If so, I have to admit to making a ... SilveradoSierra.com - Chevy Truck Forum | Silverado Sierra GMC Truck Forums The only site focused on Silverado/Sierra trucks exclusively. its on the condenser or evaporator, whichever one thats like a cylinder. If I caused this whole thing by just putting in too much R-134, I'm going to feel a bit foolish. I set...S10forum is the community to discuss the S-Series, Chevrolet Colorado and GMC Canyon. Most of the time, it was just a high pressure switch, which is a closed switch unless the pressure in the system goes above a set point where it opens the circuit and causes the compressor's clutch to disengage.
This line is also switched with the AC button on the dash.
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